Before we begin, my
bias should be noted. If there is any way you can spray the
project with a compressed air sprayer (especially HVLP), DO
IT. If you need the speed and extension capability of an
airless, get a AIR ASSISTED airless sprayer. If you have to
rent the equipment, you're going to find most equipment
rental locations will either give you a funny look or tell
you they have an air assisted airless when they don't have a
clue what one is.Airless sprayers are DANGEROUS pieces of
equipment when not used in COMPLETE compliance with all the
equipment manual's instructions. Make sure you get one from
the rental location and READ it completely before even
thinking about using it. Having said that, a regular airless
sprayer will rent for anywhere from $65-$100 per day for a
.4 gallon per minute model. Or, you may already have one.
This tutorial is ONLY about spraying and will notcover
operating the pressure controls, cleanup or troubleshooting
anything but the spray. Now to begin.
To cover large
surfaces quickly, admittedly there is nothing better than an
airless paint sprayer. The type of coating possible to be
sprayed is determined by the tip size of the spray gun. Tip
and motor size will dictate the speed of coverage
capability. For our clear coats, a .11 or .13 tip size
should work fine. But, remember, what you gain in ease and
speed, you give up in transfer efficiency. The typical
conventional compressed air sprayer will transfer 30-35% of
the material!it sprays onto what is being sprayed. A typical
airless sprayer will transfer 35-40%. The newer air assisted
airless sprayers are capable of 50-60% efficiency as well as
a "softer" fine finish like a HVLP compressed air sprayer
that will transfer from 65-75%. A turbine HVLP can get up to
90% . If you're spraying a high performance coating like
ours, costing up to $200 per gallon or more, every 10% you
increase transfer efficiency will save you about $20. Ease
of maintenance, quality of finish and transfer efficiency
are all reasons we prefer HVLP compressed air sprayers.
If you are thinking
of buying an airless, you would be well advised to try and
get an air assisted one. These units,have a small compressor
built in that supplies low pressure air to the air cap
(which is where material exits the gunand the spray pattern
is created.) Unlike regular airless that can spray at up to
3000 psi, an air assisted can spray at500-750 psi.
All airless spray
systems atomize the coating by forcing the fluid through a
small orifice at high pressure. Airlesssprayers provide
pressure from either a diphragm or piston pump unit driven
by an electric, gasoline, or air poweredmotors. Some models
use a hydraulic driven pump powered by electricity or
gasoline power. Basically, on all models, material is drawn
into the fluid tube by the piston on the up stroke, from a
pickup tube immersed in thecoating container. On the down
stroke, it forces the coating thru the hose and out the
spray gun.
The hose is an
important part of the system. By its expansion and
contraction, the hose will provide "volumetriccushioning"
(sort of like a fluid filled shock absorber) allowing the
fluid a steady paint flow at the tip. The hose alsoconducts
static electricity build up back to the sprayer where it can
be grounded.
Some advantages of
airless painting systems are:
• Cover large
surfaces fast
• Faster
than brush, roller or compressed air sprayers (although
speed would be very close on surfaces easily accessed from
the ground)
• No need for an air compressor to spray
• Wand extensions increase the vertical surface that can be
sprayed from the ground
Airless Application Techniques
Here are some basic guidelines on airless spraying that
should produce an acceptable paint finish. Most are the same
as for compressed air sprayers. Obviously, do NOT swing the
gun in an arc like movement.. You always hold the gun
perpendicular to and an equal distance from the target
surface Move the gun either across or up and down the
surface at a steady rate and consistent speed. Practice this
with a piece of cardboard to get a uniform wet coat without
any sags or runs. Always practice moving the gun (without
triggering it) over the surface prior to actual spraying.
Spray alternately in left to right and right to left strokes
(or up and down; then back and up strokes in the vertical).
Remember, always be
mindful of starting the movement of the gun BEFORE pressing
the trigger and release the trigger before your spraying
motion stops. The 95% spray in between the start of the
motion and end of the motion will contribute greatly toward
the uniformity of the coating. The guidelines for the
distance from the spray guns tip to the surface you are
spraying should be somewhere between 9-12 inches. But,
experiment to determine the right distance for you.
If you are using
too large a tip, the result will be runs or sags. Change to
a smaller tip. Conversely, if the tip is to small the
coverage may appear too thin. Change to a slightly larger
tip. But, always remember, you want a pattern that is
UNIFORMLY wet from top to bottom or side to side. The proper
overlapping of the spray pattern is also important. You can
experiment; but, usually a 20-25% of the width of the
pattern overlap is about right. Don't be afraid to
experiment when first determining the correct size tip. Or,
speed, distance or overlap for that matter. A few minutes
with testing and experimentation will help assure a fine
looking job.